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Dr Tiina Meder
Founder and CEO of Meder by Dr Tiina Meder (founded in 2009), dermatologist and cosmetic safety expert, an experienced lecturer and speaker on the topic of dermatology and skin care, sharing her expertise around the world in Japan, Taiwan, IMCAS Europe and China, FACE, CCR, APAN (Australia, New Zealand), LNE (France, Poland, Ukraine) and Microbiome Connection (USA) to name but a few. Across her career she has had more than 50 articles published.
Retinol is one of the most celebrated ingredients in skincare, renowned for its ability to smooth skin texture, even tone, and combat signs of aging. However, despite its popularity and effectiveness, retinol is not without controversy. Many users experience side effects such as irritation and sensitivity, and there are important health considerations, especially for pregnant or breastfeeding women.
With recent regulatory changes and growing awareness of retinol’s limitations, the skincare world is embracing gentle, effective retinol alternatives. These innovative ingredients offer similar benefits without the harsh side effects, making them ideal for sensitive skin and those seeking safer options.
Retinol, also known as vitamin A, plays a vital role in skin renewal and overall health. It regulates cell turnover and supports the differentiation and proliferation of cells throughout the body. This is why retinoids are so effective in promoting youthful, radiant skin.
However, retinol’s active form, retinoic acid, is naturally produced by the body in very small amounts, ensuring a smooth and gentle renewal process. When applied topically in higher concentrations, retinol accelerates skin renewal, which can lead to redness, irritation, and a condition known as retinoic dermatitis.
Moreover, retinol is chemically unstable and breaks down under ultraviolet (UV) light, generating free radicals that increase oxidative stress and sun sensitivity. This makes daytime use risky and necessitates strict sun protection.
Due to these concerns, the European Union has taken significant steps to regulate retinol use in cosmetics. As of 2022, retinoic acid is banned in skincare products, and limits have been set on retinol concentrations. From November 2025, products containing retinol and certain derivatives will no longer be available in the EU market, with other countries likely to follow.
These regulations highlight the urgent need for safe, effective retinol alternatives.
Retinol alternatives provide many advantages:
🎧 Meder Beauty Podcast: Beyond Retinol: The New Science of Safer, Smarter Skincare
Several natural and biotechnological ingredients have emerged as effective retinol alternatives:
Retinol alternatives either mimic retinoid effects or support the skin’s natural retinoic acid levels. Many innovative ingredients also offer anti-aging benefits through peptides, growth factors, stem cells, and antioxidants, often with better tolerance and safety profiles.
At Meder, we have never used retinol or its derivatives in our formulations. Safety and inclusivity, especially for pregnant and breastfeeding women, have been core values since our inception.
With growing scientific understanding and regulatory changes, retinol alternatives are becoming the new standard for safe, effective skincare. They offer the benefits of retinoids without the drawbacks, making them suitable for all skin types and life stages.
Explore Meder’s range of retinol alternative products and embrace a skincare routine that respects your skin’s health and your overall wellbeing.